The secret is to limit primary ignition current to the range of 3.5 to a little over 4 Amps, (points CLOSED engine stopped, ignition switch "on") to prevent overworking the points so they quickly burn and/or overheating the coil.
The CORRECT combination of the original 6-Volt coil AND external ballast resistor with the proper value will achieve this and even allow for a "starting bypass circuit" to give full voltage to the coil for cranking, if desired.
OR, a "true" 12 Volt coil that needs NO ballast resistor will work, instead. (NAPA IC14SB, for example.)
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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