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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Timing a Farmall A


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Posted by ScottyHOMEy on January 01, 2011 at 14:32:44 from (64.222.247.178):

In Reply to: Timing a Farmall A posted by Dahlin on January 01, 2011 at 13:53:34:

Stick with the book and you'll get it done.

As far as finding that mark so that you know it's right at TDC on the compression stroke . . . It doesn't end when you begin to feel compression. All you've done to that point is determine that you ARE on the compression stroke. You need to continue turning the motor until you reach the top of that stroke.

Pull your #1 plug, stick your finger in the plug hole and turn the motor until you begin to feel compression underneath. Take your finger out and get a light. Continue turning until you see the top of the piston. Watch it until you can see it sitting at the top. Ideally that's TDC but there's a few degrees of turn on the crank where it's hard to detect any motion at the top of the piston.

One trick is to stick a stiff wire in through the plug hole so that it rests on top of the piston and the bottom of the plug hole, something long enough that it sticks a ways out the plug hole without overbalancing. As the piston comes up, the outer end of the wire goes down. When the outer end of the wire is at its lowes, the piston is at TDC, with the same margin of a few degrees error. If you use this method and go past turning it with the crank, you can pull it back using the fan belt.

As far as the mark itself -- you won't see it when you first start feeling compression through the plug hole. You will need to very near TDC to ever see it. The mark is only visible through the hand hole on the bottom of the bell end of your torque tube, so you do need to be very near TDC to begin with. The mark is nothing put a fore-and-aft line on the wide surface of the flywheel. Even when it's all cleaned up it can be difficult to see. I've seen enough variation in them, I could never decide if they were machined or stamped in, but I can say that IHC didn't wear out any more tooling than they had to puttin' em there.

If you can get near TDC using the wire trick, you should be able to find the mark. It will take a light and likely some solvent and a stiff toothbrush-style brush -- wire is better than an actual toothbrush. For best lighting and brush access, remove the halfmoon cover under the rear of the motor, and start looking and scrubbing. If you get it altogether clean, you'll see that the line is stamped TC on on side and 1-4 on the other, but be sure to clean it up at the end of the line nearest the motor.

When that line is at dead bottom, pistons 1 and 4 will be at TDC. You will have verified that #1 is at the top of its compression stroke with the finger in the whole and wire tricks. To verify that the mark is at dead botttom, first dab some durable paint on the front end of the line that you cleaned up, then replace the halfmoon cover. Depending on which cover you have, your paint mark should align with either the vertical line in the stamped cover, or the nub cast into the inside of the cast cover.

When lined up in that fashion, you are good to go with the timing instructions in your manual.


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