The first thing you need to do is disregard Janicholson's pontificating and look at your diagram. The BAT and L terminals are joined together inside the regulator and they are both HOT at all times whether the tractor is running or not. This is obvious by looking at your diagram. If the L terminal which feeds both the lights and the ignition switch was not hot with the tractor off, the tractor would never start and the lights would only come on when running!
If you have a voltmeter or test light the B and L terminals must be hot as well as both ignition switch terminals(with the switch on of course), and the negative side of the coil. Check this by following your diagram Report back your findings. The plus side of the coil should be no volts with the points closed and six with the points open. Be sure to check this before you report back.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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