Dennis, lets start at the begining. 1. Tractor has a history of engine getting stuck. 2. Cylinder head was removed, checked, reinstalled by a shop. 3. Engine stuck again. 4. You got the tractor home, dropped the pan and found water and antifreeze. 5. You filled the cooling system, but saw no coolant at the bottom of the sleeves. 6. You found coolant when you pulled one plug.
Those are the facts, correct? When you checked for coolant at the bottom of the sleeves, did you make your observation over several days? Because coolant might be leaking from the head gasket and passing down through the rings. Early A's don't have preasurized coolant, but heat expansion could cause it to leak when warmed up. Pistons could be sucking coolant in if the head gasket does not seal at the top of the sleeve, too. If the engine was not stuck, I'd say do a compression check.
If you have been soaking the cylinders, have you been rocking the rear wheels in gear to see if you can get it to turn the crank? If that does not free it up, pull the head. The rockers come off as an assembly with just three bolts, so you really can't mess that up. The rockers, springs, pedestals, all stay on the rocker shaft. Just notice that the center bolt is a special oiler bolt with holes for oil passage. But you gotta pull the rocker to get the head.
With the head off, soak it with ATF. Rock the wheels in gear, tap gently with a block of pine almost the size of the piston. Eventually it should free up.
LOOK at the top of the block where each sleeve meets the head gasket. The sleeve should protrude above the block .002-.005(as I recall) of an inch. Use a feeler gauge and your finger to check. Some call that "standout". If more than .005, it could be the problem. In that case you would need to pull the sleeve. Sometimes the sleeves don't seat at the o-ring if you don't clean that area of the block properly. Change the o-ring.
Now, if the sleeves look serviceable, remove the piston(s) involved, hone the sleeve(s) lightly. Clean the pistons and ring grooves.
Search the archives on this forum for "head gasket", you'll see where many recommend torquing the head bolts 20 lbs. MORE than the manual originally calls for. The shop that did the head may not have had that knowledge. Remember, that .002 standout is what seals the cylinder. Common problem.
If your lucky, and you seem to be because you obviously got a good deal on a great little tractor, and you've found the best forum, YT, you might get your tractor running for the cost of a head gasket($20 as I recall). Best Regards, Charlie
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