Dennis, do you have a compression gage and air compressor? And the engine is stuck, correct? You could unscrew the gage, screw the hose into a spark plug hole one at a time, then plumb it up to blow some compressed air down each cylinder, before you take off the head. BUT take the rockers off FIRST to close all the valves.
If you put a tablespoon of oil in the hole first it will help seal the blowby at the rings, and it will help the stuck rings, too. Put a valve in the hose, so you can control the air. Make SURE the transmission is in neutral in case the engine does break free. It probably won't.
Now, listen to where you here air leaking out. Some should come out through the rings, except a really stuck cylinder. Some might come out the valves if they don't seat well. Listen at the exhaust and then the carb. If you've only got modest leakage, look in the radiator and see it you have bubbles. Might help you narrow down the problem to one cylinder. Best Regards, Charlie
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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