As crusty as that Alternator is, I would allow it to be melted down for the copper and aluminum. I believe there are several answers to the question: I would use a regular 10SI delco. Hook the #2 spade connector to the big terminal with a short wire and ring terminal. Hook the #1 spade terminal to the ignition switch through a diode (3 amp 50 volt PIV) with the stripe on the diode toward the alternator. (prevents the tractor from running after the key is shut off) A 15 ohm resistor will also work, as will a filiment style marker lamp bulb. Each of these are simple to wire in. The main terminal (big) goes to the amp meter on the side where the ignition and lights are hooked up. Most one wire systems are "always on" thus there is always a draw on the battery, even when it is not running. The factory (GM) saw fit to wire it as above, So Do I. The coil shown probably needs a resistor to drop its input voltage. It looks like a mid 1960s GM coil that did use a resistor omn the fire wall. It is correctly wired as to polarity. A 12volt no external resistor required coil can be used with no resistor. A 6volt coil can be used with a resistor. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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