OKAY! So, I went up to the farm this evening. I installed my new one wire alternator, and put on a Napa 12v coil without resistor. I think my battery is junk, it's dated 07, and barely turned over. So I got out the hand crank, never cranked a tractor in my life. After about 4 pulls on the crank it came to life, I backed it out of the trailer. The ammeter gauge didn't move off zero, I put my multimeter to the cables and my multimeter just went haywire reading -1.xx back and forth a lot.
I let it warm up for a few minutes, throttled it up about 3/4 and the ammeter gauge almost pegged at 20, then after about 2 mins came down to about the 10 mark, and then it randomly died after about 5 minutes of running. I cranked it back up, and it idled for about 10 more minutes until it got dark and I shut it off.
My question is, for whatever reason my multi meter wouldn't read the voltage in the battery while running, but isn't the needle being between 10-20 bad? I thought with 12v it would barely move? But I don't really understand how they work, so I figured I'd ask? Next step is to get a new 12v battery. I'm going to order a new 3 position switch, and re wire the tractor as soon as it's warm out. This wiring seems kind of sketchy, redoing it I believe I can handle. I just don't have a 100% grasp on how the charging system operates, though I feel I know how everything hooks up after studying diagrams.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I’m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I’ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I’ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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