I would measure the voltage at the coil input side when points are closed so current is flowing through the coil, and compare that voltage with battery voltage. If over .2 volts difference you have too much drop through wiring, ign switch, ammeter etc. Then I would measure battery voltage while starter is cranking the engine, if below very min of 4.5 volts you have poor battery, or low battery, or if battery is good, too much current draw from starter. A battery load tester can very easily give you a good accurate estimate of how much current starter is drawing. You read battery voltage while starter is cranking engine, then you load the battery with load tester to that same voltage and read the ammeter on load tester and that will be a very good indication of starter draw. Now, how much it should draw, well, that is where the interpetation of gauge readings come into play as temp, oil viscosity, compression, all come into play. Often times, just taking a starter apart on them old girls and lubricating the bushings well help immensely. The biggest single item in a starter that causes excessive current draw is lube and bushing conditions.When you hit that starter, those magnetic fields are drawing that armature toward the side of field that is opposite polarity at that time so and it is moving away from other field winding on other side. That distance causes a reduction in magnetic forces against armature winding. If it moves enough to drag you really have problems. Rarely will you find shorted field windings or armature leakage. Good clean contact of brushs on commutator with good spring pressure and good internal connections is the usual repair along with good tight but free bushings.
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