Easiest method is to find a piece of aluminum that can be sanded to a tight fit in the bearing. Pack grease in the hole of the bearing and use the rod as a hydaulic piston to push the bushing out of the crank. Pounding it in smashes the grease, which pushes against the rear edge of the bushing forcing it out. A slide hammer is also used for this. with a wedge adjusted spreader tool. A third method is to use a tap that fits the hole in the bushing ( guessing 1/2-13) threading the bushing. Keep threading until the bushing is pushed out of the hole by the tap hitting the bottom of the hole if the tap seems to want to jamb or break before it moves, put a bolt in the new threads and pull on that! . Good luck Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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