3/4 brass compression fittings are available at a good hardware store or plumbing jobber. Can't guarantee they will handle 1500 lbs. Any hydraulic shop will have steel compression fittings or other adaptors that may work for you.
"I see a sweat on fitting from the factory" That fitting is most likely furnaced brazed. You may be able to hand braze one.
Threaded pipe fittings will not work as the OD of tube is different from pipe.
I hadn't considered cutting the supply and return pipes to the IH distributer pump which is why we're talking about fittings.
Another alternative is to look at where the rear portion of the tubular manifold from the pump goes in the IH valve bank. You might be able to drill and tap an area around the small tube inlet on the big casting and attach a small adjustable needle valve to supply the PS.
But everything considered, I would do as IH did. Get the two valves, U-tube, and plug (or the whole valve bank) and set your tractor up for PS that way. You will add value to your 300. Any other way will devalue your tractor to someone who wants originality.
Another option is to use the endplate shown below. I have no idea if this will work. Owen or Pete23 (both read the forum) would know. You will most certainly have to restrict flow out of the pressure port. I think these plates are only used on 300-350 utilities. I have the one shown if you want it.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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