I have not looked, but if they are like other Farmall seals, they drive in from the outside and you dare not drive them on in to remove them (I am talking from experience). I have removed seals successfully by using a couple of self taping screws. Tap the screws into opposite sides of the flat part of the seals metal ring. If the seal is stuck you may have to drive it in just enough to break it loose. Using the screws a big screw driver or flat pry bar often is all that is needed to pry them out. Understand that you destroy the old seal when you use the self taping screws so you have to stick with it once you start. If the screws strip out just move them over and pry again. In a pinch you can simply enlarge the holes and use a pointed pry bar (ice pick type) to pry the seal out. Do not leave any metal filings behind before installing your new seal. Be sure the shaft is absolutely smooth where the new seal has to work and do put a little grease on the shaft before you install the new seal.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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