If you have been around tractors some then I am probably telling you things you already know. I've been dragging home a tractor a year for the last several years and have picked up a few ideas of what I look for. In terms of value, I look at tires, rims, and sheet metal as well as stuck or not. Rims can look good on outside but be like Swiss cheese inside. Rust around the valve stem, welds, etc are all good indicators rims are shot. In terms of labor I look for leaks. Gaskets won't break you but splitting a tractor might. Decide how much dripping is acceptable to you and look for the signs. They all leak somewhere. If it has a starter it will need a battery. Tune up kit and carb kit are a given...price them ahead of time. My SAV had an odd carb with a $200 kit price. Cheaper to replace it. Others will tell you things I forgot.
Get out there with a pad of paper and make an honest appraisal of condition and then get out your catalogs and put some numbers on it. From my perspective the B was the easiest and cheapest tractor I've worked on. Well behind the Cub and 2N and a bit better than the SAV.
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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