Jerry, my friend Bob M is sharper on IHC electrical then myself but I will toss out my thoughts.
1) The old 4 position LHBD light switches were for gennys that use a Cutout relay NOT a full fledged VR as you have shown. HOWEVER you can still use a full fledged VR just DO NOT run the gennys FLD wire up to that switch, wire it to FLD on that VR. The LHBD can still be used as the light switch only.
2) ARM post on Genny to GEN/ARM on that VR and on most 4 terminal VR's the GEN/ARM is the one hidden underneath,,,,,,,,,,FLD on Genny to FLD on VR,,,,,,,,,BAT on VR wires up to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter,,,,,,,,,(L)oad on VR feeds hot batetry voltage up to the lights and ignition (the switches BAT INPUT terminal). NOTE on cutout relay systems loads like lights and/or ignition got hot battery voltage off the load side of the ammeter as there was no L terminal on a VR.
HOW TO TELL WHICH VR TERMINAL IS WHICH
3) The VR on "many" of those the 3 terminals side by side are BAT LOAD FLD and GEN/ARM is underneath. If you use an ohm meter, BAT or LOAD have NO continuity (open circuit) to the VR's metal case mount while FLD will have a low resistance (maybe near 0 to 3 ohms) to case frame. The ARM/GEN to case may have resistance in the range of 20 to 50 or so ohms as thats the shunt winding of the cutout relay.
The BAT terminal on the VR goes to the VR's cutout relay and thats the one that has the big heavy copper winding around the coil. The FLD terminal is the one that goes to the other VR relay that has the much smaller windings.
NOTE 1 THE VR MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND CONNECTION TO WORK ........
NOTE 2 POLARIZE THE GENNY BEFORE START UP
NOTE 3 the VR will still work if you do not use LOAD terminal and loads can work if fed off the load side of ammeter (same side wire down to VR's BAT attaches) OR LOAD on the VR
Now this info and Bobs diagrams ought to help you figure what wires where OR MAY CORNFUSE YOU??????????
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