When switching to an alternator from an old Generator, you would NOT use any part of any old Voltage Regulator that was for an original Generator system.......
If????? you have a one wire self exciting internally regulated Alternator, its big main hot output wires to the load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter (if it has an ammeter) or else to the hot ungrounded battery post or where the big battery cable attaches to a starter switch or solenoid etc. (in cases with no ammeter)
The wire that used to connect to BAT on a Voltage Regulator wires to the load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter (if it has one) so that wire could be used to attAch to the Alternators output HOWEVER when changing from a 20 amp genny to an alternator I like to upgrade that wire to 10 or 8 gauge depending on alternators rating.
Of course, the wires that ran from GEN/ARM or FLD on a VR to the genny are no longer used.
If the alternator is for Neg ground BE SURE AND WIRE THE BATTERY THAT WAY i.e. Neg to frame ground.
If it has an ammeter and you swap from Pos to Neg ground, the ammeter leads need reversed or it reads bass ackwards.
If it has a coil distributor ignition and was Pos ground and you change to neg ground, the coil leads need reversed also
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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