If it is done properly (shifting in motion from 4th to 5th), there shouldn't be much grinding involved...
Sure any M or W6 in good shape can start in 5th under no load, but why lug the engine way down and put all of the stress on the clutch trying to accelerate a load from zero to 18mph in high gear, when you could progressively step up from a lower ratio to a higher one while keeping the engine in the powerband?
Oh, and regarding the moving shift not being in the owners manual... It also mentions that high altitude pistons should never be installed in low altitude tractor, the engine governor should never be tampered with for the purpose of increasing rpm or power, and only IH brand parts will ensure the continued efficiency of your tractor. I would view the "rules" in the owners manual as more like guidelines than actual rules. Every owners manual is written by someone who is desperately trying to minimize his/her and their employer's risk of being sued or subject to massive warranty recalls due to operator negligence or misuse. It only takes a couple badly failed attempts to rack up a few very big dollar signs...
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Today's Featured Article - When Push Comes to Shove - by Dave Patterson. When I was a “kid” (still am to a deree) about two I guess, my parents couldn’t find me one day. They were horrified (we lived by the railroad), my mother thought the worst: "He’s been run over by a train, he’s gone forever!" Where did they find me? Perched up on the seat of the tractor. I’d probably plowed about 3000 acres (in my head anyway) by the time they found me. This is where my love for tractors started and has only gotten worse in my tender 50 yrs on this “green planet”. I’m par
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