well, PB Blaster is my "snake oil" of choice. Not saying that the other cocktails don't work, just never tried any of them. I have also use Kroil on smaller engines, but find it a wee bit expensive for larger ones. Also works well.
The secret to using a liquid to free up rusted pistons is two fold. One important property of the liquid is low surface tension. That is what allows it to "flow" into the clearance between the piston and cylinder. That really doesn't break down the rust bond. What it does is prepare a lubricated surface that has less adhesion than the rusted dry suface. That way, when a piston starts to move slightly, you go from the rusted, highly adhesive contact points to a lubricated one. remember, this is almost on a microscopic level. The petroleum based product will not "disolve" rust. It only reduces the adhesion factor dramatically.
so, low surface tension on a petroleum based liquid is the secret here. Others can disagree, but that is the mechanics behind it.
The other technique which also works well is with the head off, pour diesel or kero into the cylinders. Light it, and let it burn off. This does 2 things. 1.) provides lubrication as diesel and kero have modest lubricative properties. 2.) The heating of the cylinders and pistons breaks the rust adhesive bond. sleeves and pistons are different metals, and therefor have a different coeficient of expansion, even if slight. This differential in expansion also breaks the rust bond. that is why heating a stuck bolt or nut works. Rust bond is broken, and the bolt/nut can turn.
If you are still having trouble picturing this, remember back to high school physics with the brass ring and the steel ring. One wouldn't fit through the other when cold. heat them up, and it would pass through. Different coeficients of expansion. Same thing applied with the heating from the burning diesel or kero.
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