athol carr said: (quoted from post at 01:26:02 07/23/11) The original box lids had small metal u-shaped brackets holding the rubber blocks. The rubber blocks were cylindrical in shape with a small, about 1/8" thick, flange around the base. These were coaxed into the circular holes in the brackets which were welded to the underside of the lid. Don't have photograph to show but one also sees them advertised on e-bay.
What he said. I wouldn't stress about getting the rubber isolators on the battery box lid. Some of the newer batteries require the removal of the isolators anyhow. Only you would know if they weren't there anyway. It isn't like you will go to a show and pop your battery box lid so people know they are there. You would be wrong anyhow because it wouldn't have a 1950s battery. The batteries from back then were built way different with exposed metal (making the isolators more important)
I deal with Lawrence at Farm Country out of Oshkosh, WI. He has almost everything you need at VERY reasonable prices. He is at the Symco show this weekend if you are in that area. His shop number is (920)231-6623 and cell is (920)420-0255. I bought my H battery box with the correct bolts for right under $100. His wiring harnesses are AMAZING as well.
Edited for typo... :oops:
This post was edited by sflem849 at 20:15:10 07/23/11.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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