It is supposed to be a closed, constant volume, system. The internal cylinders in the reservoir have fluid that follows the piston into the cylinder, thus displacing as much as used. The rear cylinder is also 2 way, putting almost what is used to extend back into the res. Piston rod differential is all, which should be a partial vacuum when extended, and zero sum when lowered. Many seals leak dramatically when under near zero pressure, but seal well when loaded in use. I think this is your issue. Any oil leaking out of the piston rod is getting past the seal there. If it does, it could be the reason other factors are appearing. If the rear cylinder control valve is not centering exactly, or is leaking, the hitch pressure could cause oil to be displaced back into the reservoir, with no oil going to the other side of that cylinder. This would pressurize the reservoir, and push pressure into the pump suction side (pushing on the seal on the pump shaft.) If it were mine, I would put a 1/4 turn hydraulic rated valve in the bottom of the rear cylinder. When I shut it off, I would close this valve. If all symptoms stop, I would look to those seals and Orings in the cylinder, and in the hitch control valve. Keep us informed! Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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