You are very close in your reasoning about pull type plows whipping on pavement. The plow does act just like the swivel wheels on a shopping cart. (It's the tail wheel that is the culprit.)
A good friend told me that the next time I wanted to pull my #8 down the road I should just lower the whole plow until the moldboards are about 1" above the road....it changes the dynamics of the tail wheel assembly and the whipping will stop.
I tried that and now I can go down the road with my H in 5th gear, wide open even, and my plow does not whip around. The plow just follows along very nice and smooth no matter what speed I go.
But...if I forget to lower the plow, and leave it at my field settings, then hit the throttle and all pandemonium breaks loose!
For those who say they can't lower the plow that low because of entering field driveways and stuff...too bad but it doesn't change what I suggest needs to be done.
About those darned caster wheels on the grocery cart; they would stop swinging around if we could lower the assembly that the caster arms are hooked onto....nearly all caster wheels will swivel if they are constructed with caster arms too verticle.
Like I said earlier, I know pull type plows. I just don't know anything about all this modern stuff. If it ain't got a trip rope, I'm lost!
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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