You can do the split at the front of the tranny, with no more than the usual jigging around to get the front of the main shaft alligned back through the clutch disc and into the pilot bushing. An important point, if you go at it that way. is to be absolutely sure that nothing happens to release the clutch -- keep that disc right where it is or you'll have to split behind the motor anyway to get things lined back up. Other thoughts -- use plenty of penetrant on the tapered bolts holding the yoke/flex joint together, if needed, to get them out. They're available from a dealer if they should break or strip severely, but they're precious to buy. as far as line up for re-assembly, if the clutch hasn't moved but you're having difficulty liining up the splines on the shaft to get it though the clutch disc, engage the PTO (if it has one) and twist on the output to turn the mainshaft to line the splines up. From there it will take only the usual acking/wiggling/swearing to get the front of the shaft in to the pilot bushing to bolt things back up.
There's a pic at the link of the front of the tranny on my BN after replacing that same seal.
I haven't looked further back on the board to find any more that might be there about your tractor and where you are with getting it into good running shape. It does sound like you're going at it quite methodically -- one can only admire that.
If you click around the links on my crude pages, you'll see that my BN was a differenct case from what I think you're working on. My project required tearing each section/segment down, cleaning and overhauling each before putting it all back together. Complete motor job, every seal, gasket and bearing on the entire machine replaced.
If you've already got your motor tight with no leaks and you're confident of your throwout bearing and clutch, then splitting at the tranny to replace that seal is absolutely the way to go. If you're starting at the back and working your way forward, then you may be better off (both for efficiency and ease of putting things back together) splitting at both ends of the torque tube, and fixing other things you can get to in that situation.
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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