No, the main shaft will pull back from the motor. Once apart, you have a choice based on the way you work and the space available.
You'll need to support the motor and torque tube in place, then roll the rear end back (jack stand supporting the front of the tranny, all resting on a dolly to allow it to roll -- in the absence of honestagawd splitting stands, a furniture dolly under the jack stand will work, there's not a lot of weight on the front of the tranny when split) with the shaft still attached. Rolling the rear back far enough to pull the shaft completely out is not the best way to go.
Better is to roll the rear (somebody on each tire to keep things as straight as possible), back enough, just the 8-10" to get your wrenches onto the bolts on the flex joint. To replace the seal (and bearing, if needed, as Gene pointed out -- what better time, eh?) you only need to remove the bolts that connect the joint to the tranny. That will reduce the risk to potentially damaging two costly bolts instead of all four, and allow you to roll the rear-end further back to better get at the job.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I’m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I’ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I’ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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