No, the main shaft will pull back from the motor. Once apart, you have a choice based on the way you work and the space available.
You'll need to support the motor and torque tube in place, then roll the rear end back (jack stand supporting the front of the tranny, all resting on a dolly to allow it to roll -- in the absence of honestagawd splitting stands, a furniture dolly under the jack stand will work, there's not a lot of weight on the front of the tranny when split) with the shaft still attached. Rolling the rear back far enough to pull the shaft completely out is not the best way to go.
Better is to roll the rear (somebody on each tire to keep things as straight as possible), back enough, just the 8-10" to get your wrenches onto the bolts on the flex joint. To replace the seal (and bearing, if needed, as Gene pointed out -- what better time, eh?) you only need to remove the bolts that connect the joint to the tranny. That will reduce the risk to potentially damaging two costly bolts instead of all four, and allow you to roll the rear-end further back to better get at the job.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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