Engines stop with the pistons in one of two places on a 4 cyl, and one of 3 places on a 6. This is where the the piston enters a compression stroke but stops before it completes the task. another cylinder that didn't fire was on compression but went over tdc to power stroke (with no spark) but expanded the compression air, pushing down that piston. The points are normally closed at that engine position (midway between strokes and stopped). If the Key or ignition Switch is left on, the coil will get full voltage 100% of the time. If running the coil is "on" less than 1/2 the total time (dwell). And the air is moving around the coil when running. A coil takes about 10 minutes of this torture before getting very hot. It may be just fine, if it works and makes reliable spark, no issue. The plug wires must be in the 153624. #1 toward radiator. Set #1 at TDC by pulling #1 plug, putting your thumb over the hole, and bumping (quick on off of start position) the starter around until your thumb feels compression, then turn the crank till the pointer is on the TDC timing mark. No figure out where the rotor is pointing and reset the timing. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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