At the key way: I would use a 3 inch cut-off wheel to rough cut and then finish with a dremel with a small cut-off wheel for best control and cut thru the hub into the keyway (but not the crank) then I would go 180 degrees from the keyway and cut the hub most of the way with a dremel but stay a bit proud so as to not hit the crank. A chisel should then finish the job to create two half circles which should then easily remove. Heck you might not even need to use the chisel. The relief cuts should relieve the press fit enough that it will pop off with your puller quite easily and you could avoid having to apply heat to a crankshaft which I would prefer to avoid if possible.
Also not to hi-jack the thread: but I was always under the impression that hydraulic bottle jacks would not work laying on their side but I guess yours jack does. Since I do not have a porta power I have always used old truck manual screw jacks or manual scissor jacks for horizontal loading applications. Guess maybe I should try some of my newer hydraulic jacks to see if they will work horizontally. I do know some of my older hyrdralic jacks will not work other than vertically.
This post was edited by rankrank1 at 16:42:47 10/25/11 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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