In many years of sales I'd say I saw more (electrical mods) done half a$$ed then right actually. It costs a bit more to do it right and the funny thing is how so many otherwise darn good farm n shade tree mechanics (much better then I) ARE JUST OUT TO LUNCH when it comes to basic electrical knowledge. Im NOT knocking them, just pointing out they may be execellent mechanics yet they short change the electrical modifications.
As I'm sure you're aware, a starter shop (but not many left compared to years ago) can take those starters intended for saddle switches and replace that exposed copper button with a stud for use with the H and M type pedestal push start switches or electrical solenoids.
To add to the posters original question based on your excellent input, and ifffffffff he still has the saddle switch, I guess if I just had to quickly jump start it AND IF IT HAS A MAGNETO IGNITION it would be easiest to just remove a battery cable (safest to remove the ground cable where it bolts to frame) up near the battery,,,,,,,,,,,, then make the temporary jump as earlier described to start her,,,,,,,,, then replace the battery cable to frame connection. I say at the frame ground conenction cuz I dont like to make sparkies at the top of the batetry.
Funnnnn chattin at ya, hope we have helped n not cornfused......
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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