If the Solenoid is a Ford type, of course the big main input side is where the big + battery cable attaches plus maybe a 10 or 12 gauge that goes to the ammeter. The other big output side wires to the starter.
On the small terminals one may be labeled S and the other I ??? You wont be using the little I terminal so the one you want is S. If its not labeled, the one you need to use is whichever when hot voltage is applied (solenoid must have frame ground via its mounting bolts) makes the solenoid latch in. Just try a little jump wire with hot battery voltage n see which small terminal makes her latch USE THAT ONE.
But those solenoids are intended for starters that have a stud bolt connection for the solenoid or big cable NOT the starters that use the saddle mount mechanical push to engage start switch. Some guys jury rig the push saddle switch down so its always closed then use the solenoid with a key or push to start switch etc to start the tractor BUT I DONT LIKE THAT SET UP
If it has a good working saddle mount push to start switch you can toss the solenoid, just wire the big battery cable and the small to ammeter wire to the switch and push to start. Or the H amd M and other tractors used a big heavy pedestal mount push to start switch instead of the on starter saddle mount and it wires the same, one side to battery other down to a stud/post on the starter.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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