I never use any of the "trick" stuff to clean the inside of the engine. Instead, I always substitute one quart of ATF for one quart of oil at each change. Keeps the inside of the engine clean enough to eat off of. I have also used it to clean out engines with more sludge in them then oil, but only after pulling all pans, covers etc. and scrapping everything off I could reach by hand. Then I add fresh oil, filter and the ATF. Check the oil condition DAILY until it looks like the stuff running in the sewer, then change it again and repeat. Eventually, it comes out clean and there have been no other issues. I guess doing it this way might cause leaks, but since the first thing I did was R/R all covers, I replaced the gaskets with new ones at that time and it has not been an issue for me.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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