Iv had a Super MD for about 4 years now went though the engine etc. They have a tendency to crack heads when they are shut down hot and not allowed to cool and equealize after they have been worked hard. If i for instance am using it for plowing, or bush hogging, i will park it in the shade and leave it just above an idle for ten or so mins. Make sure you leave it in the diesel postion when you have it off to allow the sarting valves to cool on their seats and not warp. As far as the sudden rev up, it shouldnt really be doing that, the manual says to have the speed control lever 'throttle' to about the 1/3 to 1/2 way position when switching to diesel. However mine will swithch lower then that. I think the main thing you have to worry about with the reving at a start would be to blow a head gasket, however this is true with all engines in general at a cold start. I personal dont see the need for a block heater that is why they start on gas, and where popular in cold climate areas where other diesels at the time would have had a much harder time starting.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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