The easiest way I have found is to watch the valves in action, and stop when they are in a position that guarantees the position of the valve you are adjusting. The valves are either intake or exhaust. Use this on one cylinder at a time, it works on any 4 stroke engine of any number of cylinders. I put a shop rag over the adjacent cylinder's valves to assure I am looking only at the cylinder I am adjusting. Starting with #1 cylinder Rotate the engine until the exhaust valve –just- starts moving, then adjust the intake on that cylinder. Rotate the engine until the intake valve just stops moving and then adjust the exhaust. These two positions are located such that the cam is not pushing on the valves as you adjust it to spec. Do one cylinder at a time, and look at the intake and exhaust manifolds to assure it is an intake or exhaust. They are E-II-EE-II-EE-II-E From front to back Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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