Ralph, I just went through this. Engine set from R.F. Engine Service $1100. S-P set, gaskets, 12 valve guides, 6 exhaust valves, 12 springs, rod & main bearings, 6 wrist pin bushings. Repair sleeve in broken cylinder wall $400 (including degrease block and head). Fit 6 wrist pins $80. Turn crank $100 damage from anti-freeze in crankcase, after cyl. wall froze and split.) Injectors rebuilt (water damage) $1240. Understood you have non-Diesel, should give you some idea. If motor is stuck, just unbolt the crank and lift it out. Sleeves are a push-fit in the block, they'll come out with the pistons in most cases. If they stick in the block, they break up real easy, don't spend big $$ on a sleeve puller. Fritz
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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