Only if you were planning on running the new pistons directly on the bores, if not, JB the crack, let dry overnight, then sand/grind out the excess and install new sleeve, using some glycerine (local Mom & Pop style drug store) as a lube/sealant, but be quick to get it installed once you apply the stuff, because it will set up tacky in less than a minute. You may need to use substantial force to seat the sleeve all the way to the bottom. Try a block of wood and a sledge hammer. I have been running mine this way on number one since '09 with no problems at all, and I even tractor pull with it. The block can also be welded, if using sleeves again or not, as well, but will require boring afterwards. Might be a good time to bore that sucker out to what you think is a good size, then have custom sleeves installed in it, but this can get expen$ive. :P
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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