I used a big honkin chinese 'pittsburgh' splitter.. it was plenty beefy.. I used a bottle jack, and backing plate. in the end I puleld the flange off the puleld on my C's crank nose. :(
I ended up splitting the remnant of the hub carefully with a die gringer about 80% of the way, staying out of the timing cover AND crank nose. then split it with a chissle.
some goofball had used EPOXY and glued the pulley on to the interference fit crank snout.
I got a new pulley, and added neverseize and grease to it after polishing the crank snout and cleaning up the front of the engine, governor, and putting a new seal / cover on..e tc.
used a 3/4 impact wrench and gr 8 bolt and piece of 1/2" plate cout round with a hole int he center as a pusher to reinstall the hub.
tain't coming off easy I can tell ya!
if you search back a couple months you may see threads from me working on my C.. many many pics Iposted of the repairs.. and pics others posted to help me.. especially puller setups.
I ended up building a backing plate using rods and a jack and a big bearing splitter.
idea was good.. just wasn't meant to deal with an epoxied on pulley that was already interference fit...
good luck
ps.. i hear some models have a set key.. not sure what you are working on.. etc..
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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