spall bolt on parts like genny and coil get removed. did not remove the starter.. masked it both ways.. ie.. masked to shoot red, then papered around it to touch up black.
I never paint belts and hoses if I can at all help it... even though it was likely done at the factory..
decals are actually the lesser expensive vynal ones.. ie.. cheaper set.. not water transfers or anything, got em online, as I do most of my parts, when possible.
we have no good retail outlets for that kind of stuff.. past tractor supply.. etc..
did MINIMAL wire brushing. some scraping... that and a quick scour over paint . metal looked 99% as it was.. I found one lil area of the hood, on an edge that had been eaten away from rust.. about the size of a green pea.. on a flanged edge.. not noticeable..e tc.
I mask gauges.. etc...
if you dig back to my last couple of tractors I had more toime and took way more pics, you can see my usualy step by step process.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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