Re: 113 Farmall Sleeves

Posted by Janicholson on February 28, 2012 at 16:31:20 from (67.72.98.45):

In Reply to: 113 Farmall Sleeves posted by S/C Bob on February 28, 2012 at 08:34:10:

Sleeves need to be measured in 6 places to assess their usability. The first is to determine taper. the piston travel will wear the very lowest portion of the sleeve the least due to the fast that there is less heat, and less side thrust, and the piston skirt is basically unloaded, or doesn't get down that far. It often has original crosshatching from manufacturing. The top of the piston ring travel is the most worn area. The top ring is subjected to both high temperatures, and pressures during the firing stroke. The compression pressures also push the ring outward making even more contact pressure. Engine lubricating oil is spread thinnest at that point, influencing ring and cylinder wall wear.
The thrust side of the sleeve is where the piston pushes sideways while wedging the crank around in the direction of rotation. (thus on the side of the sleeve CCW from the front of the tractor.)
These wear factors need to be checked as follows:
Measure three directions across the bottom one half inch of the cylinder. Use telescopic bore gauges to get a feel of greatest diameter with a tiny bit of friction (just enough to hold the gauge in place) measure this gauge reading with a 3 to 4" micrometer. Write the measurements down and average them. If one is radically different remeasure.
Now measure the greatest diameter at the top of the wear (usually about 1/2" down in the top of the sleeve). Measure this in three directions as well to assure a solid average size.
The next measurement is 1/3 of the way down, and it is also multiple directions, this time in alignment with the engine, and then across the engine. Measurement here will assess the roundness of the middle of the sleeve.
If the bottom measurement is .005" smaller than the upper measurement, the sleeve is too worn to use. (replacement is best) if the center measurement is .002 different between long ways and cross ways, it is also too egg shaped to use.
If you decide to use the sleeve, the ridge at the top must be machined out so new rings will not crash into the old wear groove (nasty noise) and break.
After ridge reaming (the term used) the sleeve must be refinished (glaze breaking). usually a Ball style glaze breaker is sufficient 250 grit balls, and thin oil lubricant to assure good polishing at 45* angle of pattern (up and down in a herring bone look)
Use solvent base rinse to assure all grit is gone. Use a wire wheel to clean the exterior to make a perfect seal at top and bottom (Oring) area.
I hope this helps. Jim

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