a) Use a 12 volt nominal rated coil (designed to operate at 12 volts nominal, but still produce a decent spark from like 9 or 10 (starting) to 14 volts and handle the current and sufficiently dissipate the heat and not overheat (around 2.5 to under 4 ohms primary, typical 3 ohms)
OR
b) Use 6 volt nominal rated coil PLUS an external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) Ballast Resistor which reduces the 12 battery volts down to 6 as the coil was designed to handle so it passes the current and dissipates the heat and still produces a decenT spark at starting (maybe 4.5 volts) and running (maybe 7 volts) Their primary winding (of many NOT every one mind you) is around 1.25 to under 2 ohms, around 1.5 typical.
NOTE many 6 or 12 volt tractors still use the same coil butttttttt if on a 12 volt tractor the ballast is in series ahead of them to drop 6 volts leaving 6 on a 6 volt coil AS ITS LABELED AND DESIGNED FOR
NOTE allllllll coils are NOT the same. If you go to NAPA they will ask if you want a 6 or 12 volt they will NOT say they are all the same. (although you can use a 6 on a 12 volt tractor with a ballast, i.e. same coil can still work on either)
NOTE a coil labeled "12 volts" or "12 volts NOT for use with external ballast resistor" is a 12 volt nominal coil HOWEVER a coil labeled "6 volts" or "12 volts for use with an external ballast" is in reality a 6 volt coil i.e. designed to produce a spark at 4.5 to 7 volts AND STILL HANDLE THE CURRENT AND NOTTTTTTT OVERHEAT
NOTE different manufacturers used differnt rated coils and ballast sizes so the above cant be true for alllllllllllllllllllll tractors and coils and Im talking original old farm tractor typical ignitions here NOT after market or high energy like Mallory and Accell etc etc race cars IM TALKIN MOST OLD 6 AND 12 VOLT TYPICAL FARM TRACTORS
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