I'm going to give a different version. This excludes pulling, which to me is not real world. Unlike the early 560, the M/SM has balanced power to the ground. That is when the properly weighted tires start to slip the tractor loses rpm. The tractor is not overloaded as long as you can go from a standing start to full rpm in a few seconds. You should also be able to back off the throttle slightly, then open it up and the tractor will rapidly accelerate. Does plowing hurt the engine or rear end? -- not unless you overload it. I ran an H (think of it as a small M) for years pulling a 3 disk "breaking plow" in 2nd gear. The land wheel slipped slightly and probably could have used more weight. 3rd could be used for plowing in certain parts of the field, but that was rare. The H would pull a heavily weighted 6 ft tandem disk in 3rd gear, but almost never in 4th. Yes I know it will pull a wider one, but we got the best results with weight not width. I considered both of those tillage methods full load, for the gears we used. For all practical purposed 1st was too slow and 4th too fast. To sum up, combined with a little common sense on the part of the operator the tractor will tell you when it is happy, and when it is overloaded. The early 560 was overpowered for the drive train. Engine was happy, rear end hurt.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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