On the M you will notice the bushing has two holes in it that align with the economizer circuit. New bushings are longer and have two notches in them intended to be aligned with the holes in carb body. I never had a tool to machine the end of the bushing after installation so I cut the new bushing to same length as old one and then installed it. You need to ream bushing after installation also. There are other ways of doing this also. If that bushing is not available the one on the other side is the same as other engines all the way to the 806 gas. If it is exact length of old bushing you can drill holes in bushing to match old one. The face of the bushing has to be the correct distance from the governor link housing and I think it is 5/8th inch. Some carburetors have the economizer plugged with some particular power packs that were put in. In that case you could forget about those holes in the bushing. It isn't as confusing as I made it sound though.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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