Unless you were doing a TOTALL teardown(which you obviously DO NOT need.) I would not go near the engine or the trans/final drive with a pressurized sand blaster at all! Most people do not realize that the sand under that kind of pressure WILL get into areas you dont want it to! I dont care HOW much duct tape,corks,plugs,block off plates you use.
You might look into low pressure,[lastic media blasting,but it will still enter any cracks or crevases. A good cleaning and some hand prep work like posted below will produce "show quality" results.It is in the detail as to how much you want to "work" at the prep job???? The prep work IS the key to GREAT paint.period!!!!
Even if you DO choose to sandblast it,you will have as much prep afterwards as you would have if you didnt blast it. (Sand clean up,taking it FARTHER apart to get the sand out of areas it should have NEVER been.) IMHO,If I were going to blast it,I would start tearing it apart even more than it is now.You wount get good coverage with the sand.TOO many angles to hit.You will find yourself taking things apart afterwards to finish them.
The old paint that is on it+ MORE primer will work good as a base IF IT IS PREPPED CORRECTLY! ;) I am sure I will get arguments here. :) Unless a tractor was a "rust bucket" of a chasssis,(which yours OBVIOUSLY is not!) I wouldnt.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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