It pretty straight forward. Do one side at a time. Make sure to wedge the front axle. Support the tractor, then remove the wheel/tire. Remove the bolts on the top of the final and remove the fender. Disconnect the pin fron the end of the brake rod that connects to the pedal. Remove the bolts from the lower section of the final. At this point, a helper may be necessary as the final is pretty heavy. Sometimes it will pull straight off, and sometimes it will require persuasion from puddy knives driven between the final and transmission/axle extension to get the final loose. Pull straight out with the final as to not damage the transmission seal, taking the brake band, toggle and rod with it.
Now that you have it apart, install the new band. You may have to reshape it some to get it to fit around the drum. Then reinstall everything in reverse. The right side is a bit more difficult because of the longer differential shaft that extends through the axle extension. Once both sides are done, adjust the rod so that the pin will just slide in. Take the tractor for a spin working the brakes on both sides pretty good, then readjust each independently so that they have the same stopping pressure and travel.
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Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro
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