Is the W4 axle the type with several splines on it and a bolt in the end of the axle? If so, they can be a real swine to remove. I got one of an AW-7 tractor with a porter power hydraulic ram to break the rust seal. You need something very solid to push against, such as the other wheel firmly on the ground. You need to be quite certain the porter power cannot shift and part company from the tractor at high speed as it will almost certainly make some thoroughly unpleasant alterations to you as it flies away. Apply pressure. If the wheel does not want to start moving, release pressure and rotate the wheel through 180 degrees. Apply pressure again. If it is still stubborn, judicious application of force via heavy hammer and large brass drift can help 180 degrees from porter power point of force. If that fails, then you need to use more industrial methods. If you decide to use another tractor to jerk it free be extremely careful that it does not remove the wheel entirely, damage the axle or damage the hub casting. Even more important you must be absolutely sure that you do not injure or kill yourself or others by this method. Many people have come to grief this way.
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Today's Featured Article - On the Road with Dave Gohl: Auction Musings - by Dave Gohl. I was thinking the other day about all the auctions I've been to in the last few years. There've been many. Some have been very good, some have been well, disappointing to say the least. But no matter how good or bad auctions may be, we always seem to stay until the item we've come for or are interested in is on the block. I've been to some auctions near and far. I think the furthest has been the Two Cylinder 7 in the Amana Colonies last year. Lots of stuff, lots of people. I've also atten
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