It's got to be one of the basics. There's no magic involved.
Unfortunately, all we can do is tell you to "check" and all you can do is "look" and say "it's fine." Being a novice you don't necessarily know what you're looking at, or what is "fine" so it makes troubleshooting complicated.
Pull the #1 (front) spark plug and find top dead center on the compression stroke. Put your finger in the hole and manually crank the engine over until you feel air pushing out the hole, then shine a light in there and watch for the piston to come up to the hole. Move it back and forth with the fan blade until the piston is at its highest point.
Now follow the #1 spark plug wire back to the distributor and make note of which tower it is connected to. Remove the cap and hopefully the rotor contact will be directly under that tower. That means you're in time.
When you pull a spark plug after trying to start, is it wet or dry?
Does the spark plug spark when you attach it to the wire and crank the engine over with the plug laid against the block?
Are you using choke when you try to start? If yes, try without. If no, try giving it some choke.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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