The likely issue is the seal on the Liftall pump. It is a heavy pump, and a floor jack and help ballancing it is needed. Long threaded rods with the same size and pitch as the retainer bolts also works well. Process is to remove all the Elbow fittings, the fill cap, and the control rod. Remove the tin inspection plate behind the pump lower casting which sticks down and has key holes in it on each side. The inspection cover allows access to the pump drive shaft. remove the two cotter pins and remove the shaft. Remove the bolts, and replace with the threaded rod, or with help, use a floor jack to lower the pump. (heavy!!)
To remove the seal (common seals can be used from bearing companies, the size is readily matched)a brass or aluminum flat is placed between the teeth of the pump gears to lock them from turning. a 1/2" key stock, or piece of flat 2"X1/2"X 2 feet long iron strap is used to remove the coupling. It is right hand threads, lefty loosy (CCW) to remove. The seal can be pulled from there and replaced. Attempt to place the new seal so it doesn"t ride in a groove made by the old seal. Ues chassis grease on the seal to assure it is lubed when first operated. Easy to do 4 hours if not done before, 2 hours if the second time. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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