I have to agree with that. You can never get the valves really set hot with a standard feeler gauge. The temperature drops considerably between adjusting the first valve and the last. I prefer motors that give a cold setting. All clearances are set at equal temperature and there is no chance of burning your hands or arms on hot engine parts. We set the valves on the Farmall H a couple of weeks ago. Very easy with magneto ignition.
1). Remove the high tension lead from the magneto cover to the centre of the distributor cap.
2). Get the motor to top dead centre on Number 1 cylinder.
3). Set valves on Number 1.
4). Turn motor 180 degrees (until impulse coupling trips). Set valves on Number 3.
5). Continue the same through 180 degrees for Number 4 and Number 2.
Then check and reset them all again as necessary, having turned the motor over several times. This ensures a much better setting than just going through once.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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