I would try cleaning the connections at the ignition switch & solenoid on top of the starter, after making sure the battery cable ends are shiny bright also. Any corrosion robs a 6 volt system of much needed amperage. High quality copper battery cables double ought in size usually help a lot, a welder friend of mine offered me some of his discarded cable he had lying around & it works great. I soldered new terminal ends on them both.
The larger cables offer less resistance. Any wire you need to replace, go with 10 ga copper, less problems down the road.
I would go with the highest cranking amp 6 volt you can find, the heavier the battery the better, this means the lead plates inside are either bigger, or there is more of them.
The best ( and most expensive) I have found, BUT at least you never have to worry about rust in the battery box again :
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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