Measure the discs. They are 1/2 inch thick when new. If they are still that measurement, put all parts, the two discs and the actuator in the drum and then lay a straight edge across to measure operating clearance. You only need about .030 clearance but you will want to leave more than that just to make sure you don't take off too much. Machine that drum off so you have about .060 clearance. You probably have about 1/8 inch now. If you study that actuator, see all the pressure points, the leverage on the linkage etc you will see why you lose leverage as it expands as the two points come closer together. If you really want it right you will machine all the worn and scored surfaces and then establish the clearance. On the 656 tractors and others they used shims to establish the proper clearance. That is the major adjustment on those models and the threaded adjustment was the minor one. Of course, all expanding points inside and outside of actuator need to be polished and I lube them lightly, balls , ramps, and machined ramps inside drum and outside of actuator.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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