Go to the Paint and Bodywork forum on this site and read it for a couple of days, all the info is there, then ask questions about what you don't understand. An oversimplification is take all removable parts off, take everything to bare metal, clean the whole tractor throughly, final prep step is wax and grease remover. Then 2 coats of epoxy primer, sandable surfacer over the epoxy on only the sheet metal (use body filler, etc first), sand and reapply as necessary, then 3 coats of topcoat paint. Epoxy, surfacer, and topcoat are to be mixed EXACTLY as the instructions say. Use hardener only if you have a supplied air system, the hardener contains isocyanates that a charcoal mask will not filter out. They can make you sick. All of this and then some is on the Paint and Bodywork forum, books won't do you much good as many of them are incorrect. I wouldn't pay much attention to paint salesmen either. I am not familiar with your paint. There are several choices, in the order of quality and price, high quality first: Urethane (MUST have hardener), acrylic enamel, acrylic modified alkyd enamel, and the old alkyd enamel (junk compared to todays paint).
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Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro
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