Go to the Paint and Bodywork forum on this site and read it for a couple of days, all the info is there, then ask questions about what you don't understand. An oversimplification is take all removable parts off, take everything to bare metal, clean the whole tractor throughly, final prep step is wax and grease remover. Then 2 coats of epoxy primer, sandable surfacer over the epoxy on only the sheet metal (use body filler, etc first), sand and reapply as necessary, then 3 coats of topcoat paint. Epoxy, surfacer, and topcoat are to be mixed EXACTLY as the instructions say. Use hardener only if you have a supplied air system, the hardener contains isocyanates that a charcoal mask will not filter out. They can make you sick. All of this and then some is on the Paint and Bodywork forum, books won't do you much good as many of them are incorrect. I wouldn't pay much attention to paint salesmen either. I am not familiar with your paint. There are several choices, in the order of quality and price, high quality first: Urethane (MUST have hardener), acrylic enamel, acrylic modified alkyd enamel, and the old alkyd enamel (junk compared to todays paint).
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - Tractor Engine Repair - by Teri Burkholder. One of the great things about working on a tractor engine with your other half is that you know what he is thinking of at all times and can anticipate his every move and his next thought of what he will do. With Ben, anyway, I can tell! He'll be busy working and I’m handing him tools and he says, "give me that..." and I’ve already got it in his hand or "hand me that....."and I’ve got the portable light right where he needed it placed to see. "Run in the house and get me a...."as I open th
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