Go for it, I don't know how much snow you get there but if you get over 6" at any time or drifting get a front loader with wide bucket for inital clearing and then put on a 3 point with rear blade for a final clearing of snow as the loader will not do a good job of clearing but it does do a good job of getting thru deep snow that a rear blade will not do. And the higher tractor is easier to see what you are doing with a loader,(also easier to see items that may be ahead of the mower), A back blade does not work good if there is over 4" of snow but it can be done. I had a Ford 4000 with the 38" rear wheels with a 6' bucket for snow and would be bucketing snow for hundreds of feet to find a place to dump it, (that tractor is the high utility version, height of a rowcrop but you straddled the transmission instead of setting on top as in the row crop version and same as the SM), kept the rear blade on all winter and had 2 sets of wheel weights on along with tires filled with fluid and with the snow there is always ice under to spin out on, also had chains for it. And it put out 60 hp on dyno and I would at times kill it with a 5' bush hog mower on a pull type. If you can mow several times a year without it getting too big I would sujust a pull type 7' mower but one with either 2 or 3 blades, do not get one with a single blade in that size, pull to hard and too hard to manuver. 7 ft. will cover the tractor tires for width but a 5' you would have to run with the tires on the outside of the cut width and you cannot get close to a fence or buildings with them. I would swing the swinging drawbar to side for that but too hard on power driveline.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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