It is not a big job if you have the cast centers for both. I did it both ways alone as a teenager back in the 60's. Use the bottle jack as suggested by others under the housing. Remove the four nuts holding the front pedestal then jack up the tractor front until the pedestal can be removed. Put the nuts and washers back on the pedestal for safe keeping. Remove the tires only after the pedestal is off the tractor even if you have to move the cast centers over. Install the tires on the wide axel before you install to the tractor. The wide front will not be exactly the same height as the pedestal so keep the jack in place. Have the four bolts handy to bolt the wide front to the front bolster. With the tires on it is much easier to align the axel. With the bolts in place attach the tie rods and you are done unless you need to adjust the tread width. Be sure to check for proper toe in alignment. Understand that the wide front for the SC was a nightmare to drive. Keep your front pedestal because you may put it back on once you have driven it for a while.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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