There are quite a few posts in the archives, and can be found by searching this site. However, the thumbnail is: take all fittings off the tank. treat with muriatic acid (using all safety measures). Do the "triple rinse" with water. Last rinse with acetone. Dry thoroughly. Use your favorite tank coating, I prefer Caswell, but there are others. After acid treatment it is very important to coat the inside of the tank to prevent rust.
Or you can send the tank out to places that specialize in tank cleaning/coating.
If you don't want to go through all that, at least remove the tank and rinse and invert the tank multiple times using acetone, gasoline, diesel, etc. This will get most of the "crap" out of the tank. If there is scaley rust in it, put a small handful of drywall screws in, a little gasoline, and close up the openings. Agitate the tank the best way you can, so that the drywall screws loosen all the scale. Then do the multiple rinse steps. You still need to consider sealing the inside of the tank to stop/prevent future rust.
Others will post with their prefered methods. Bottom line, tank the tank off the tractor and get the crud out, and rinse.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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