A compression check is done with a screw in compression gauge. If you don't have mechanics tools, you will. A good compression tester from a real tool company will be in the area of 35$ to 100+ bucks, Craftsman for 58 is pretty good. The engine has all plugs removed. The coil is disconnected (the distributor side of the coil is a good place to disconnect) The Throttle is open wide Fuel shut off is off Fully charges good battery to spin it fast. Put the tester in #1 cylinder (front) Crank the engine for 5 compression strokes (you can hear it easily) Look at the gauge and record the data on a tablet. Do the same for each cylinder. Use a squirt oil can and put three squirts of engine oil in each spark plug hole, spin the engine with the starter to spread the oil Repeat the test now. Report back to us for diagnosis. Generally the compression should be (IIRC) 140 to 160 PSI If uniform, (within 10 % of each other) that is also good. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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