Posted by FC Andy on January 07, 2013 at 17:33:41 from (74.126.84.52):
In Reply to: M head stud removal posted by sflem849 on January 07, 2013 at 16:52:15:
sflem849 said: (quoted from post at 17:52:15 01/07/13)
BigTone said: (quoted from post at 15:46:05 01/07/13) It didnt need to be decked, it was a distilate before I turned it into a gasser so I dont think it go hot enough to do any damage. Block was in remarkable shape, i got lucky.
How do you know it was square? I don't know of any man that can see .005" out of square on a deck, especially with the studs in the way of the straight edge.
Actually, you can see .002" or less if you look. If you need to prove it to yourself, take a good straight edge, lay it on a surface plate, and aim a flashlight towards the blade on the far side. You'll see the light if there's a gap. If you saw no light, put a piece of .002" shim stock on the one end. Then look again. You'll see the light over half of the distance of the blade, even on a 24" combination set blade. Furthermore, why would you worry about .005" anyway? Isn't that why you use coppercoat and a gasket? You set the valves individually. I could see sealing issues when the warpage is .010" or more, but .005" or less isn't enough for me to worry about. Besides, Unless the top deck is surface ground, it could be that far out of square, anyway. Then you'd have to grind the oil pan side, flip it, and grind the top deck. All while being very careful to keep things square to the bore of the main bearings and camshaft. (which really wouldn't matter, you're just talking about 2 gasketed surfaces anyway, the only reason they matter is for the engine's first machining, unless you re-bore the block to accept bigger sleeves or re-bore the main bearings or something like that.)
Enough rambling from me. -Andy
This post was edited by FC Andy at 17:40:24 01/07/13.
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